The “jaquetância”

A Jaquetancia
A Jaquetancia

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The ‘jaquetância’

The ‘jaquetância’ is a Portuguese term that evokes the spirit of elegance and sophistication in men’s dressing, characterised by attention to detail and the choice of pieces that exude class. Amongst these garments, we would highlight the overlapping striped jacket, our ‘jaquetão’ which the British call ‘double-breasted’, it is an icon of classic tailoring.
The double-breasted jacket is distinguished by its refined cut, characterised by a crossed zip and two rows of buttons, which give it a structured yet imposing look. This garment has its roots in military clothing, but was quickly adopted by men’s fashion as a symbol of statement and style. Over time, it has adapted to contemporary dress codes, becoming more versatile without losing its traditional charm.
In today’s fashion, the jacket takes on new attributes that make it essential for the modern man: it is a garment that communicates confidence and politeness, whether in a business environment or in a more relaxed context, when combined with twill trousers or even jeans. It also enhances the male silhouette, creating an accentuated shoulder line and a more fitted waist shape, balancing sophistication and practicality.
In short, the jacket is the meeting point between tradition and modernity, adaptable to the various facets of contemporary dressing, always carrying with it an undeniable dose of ‘jaquetância’, a true ally in a connoisseur’s wardrobe.
In fine wools or wool, linen and silk blends, in the whole palette of plains, club stripes or more classic or vibrant plaid patterns, the jaquetão will be a reliable companion this spring-summer.

Partilhar

The “jaquetância”

A Jaquetancia

The ‘jaquetância’ is a Portuguese term that evokes the spirit of elegance and sophistication in men’s dressing, characterised by attention to detail and the choice of pieces that exude class. Amongst these garments, we would highlight the overlapping striped jacket, our ‘jaquetão’ which the British call ‘double-breasted’, it is an icon of classic tailoring.

The double-breasted jacket is distinguished by its refined cut, characterised by a crossed zip and two rows of buttons, which give it a structured yet imposing look. This garment has its roots in military clothing, but was quickly adopted by men’s fashion as a symbol of statement and style. Over time, it has adapted to contemporary dress codes, becoming more versatile without losing its traditional charm.

In today’s fashion, the jacket takes on new attributes that make it essential for the modern man: it is a garment that communicates confidence and politeness, whether in a business environment or in a more relaxed context, when combined with twill trousers or even jeans. It also enhances the male silhouette, creating an accentuated shoulder line and a more fitted waist shape, balancing sophistication and practicality.

In short, the jacket is the meeting point between tradition and modernity, adaptable to the various facets of contemporary dressing, always carrying with it an undeniable dose of ‘jaquetância’, a true ally in a connoisseur’s wardrobe.

In fine wools or wool, linen and silk blends, in the whole palette of plains, club stripes or more classic or vibrant plaid patterns, the jaquetão will be a reliable companion this spring-summer.

A Jaquetancia
suMisura’s Super 110’s Pure Wool double breasted with two patch pockets.

The Big Five

The Big Five
The Big Five

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The Big Five

Perhaps the best and most sensible inspiration when it comes to men’s executive and city wardrobe is this handy “tip”, a real Swiss Army knife for the dynamic man whose environment is the hustle and bustle of the “urban jungle”. Particularly for young professionals who hesitate to imitate what they see, for the security it gives them, spending more than investing in what is the code for when the socio-professional situation demands it, such as politicians, lawyers, auditors and other professions where non-verbalism is valued.

The Big Five is the quintet of sleeves that dresses up any situation not elevated to the ceremony, and we’re talking about 4 suits and a dark blue jacket of a darker hue. The cut should be as classic and understated as possible, such as a two-button jacket with two or three pieces. In turn, the fabric should be merino wool or a wool mix depending on the use and intended purpose in a weight between 270 and 290g and the patterns, if you can’t buy them all at once, should follow this sequence: dark blue suit and blue jacket, dark grey suit, small patterned suit (pie’d’poule, birdseye, houndstooth, etc.), diplomatic stripe suit in chalk or pinstripe. The shirt is white, the tie according to the personality of the day and the pocket handkerchief according to the mood and we’re ready for any situation or invitation. From this base opens up a whole range of options that will be more or less fashionable, more or less stylish, but the solid foundation of a wardrobe is the Big Five.

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Leap forwards

Leap forwards
Leap forwards

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Leap forwards

Technology has reclaimed the knit fabric of the 1970s and given it the technological boost of the A.I. era and it has found its place in contemporary fashion trends, changing perceptions of what it means to dress elegantly with maximum comfort. Knitted fabric is versatile and adapts to different styles, providing a sophisticated yet relaxed look.

One of the main advantages of knitwear is its comfort. Composed of different materials such as cotton, polyester and wool, it moulds to the body, allowing freedom of movement. What’s more, knitwear is ideal for a variety of occasions, from a walk in the park to a more formal meeting, depending on how it is styled.

Another important feature of knitwear is its diversity of patterns and textures, which makes it an attractive choice for men looking to express their personal style in a unique way.

In addition to looks and comfort, knitwear is a sustainable option, especially when made from recycled or organic materials. As fashion moves towards more conscious practices, knitwear stands out for its ability to combine style, comfort and environmental responsibility. By opting for knitted garments, men can feel good inside and out, contributing to more sustainable fashion, grasping the future and a permanent sense of freedom.

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Wholecut’s

Wholecuts
Wholecuts
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Wholecut’s

Wholecut’s, or il Cardinali, are social shoes made from a single piece of leather, which gives them an elegant, minimalist look. Their history goes back to the tradition of British tailoring, where the search for a clean and sophisticated design became a standard in formal footwear. The absence of visible seams not only beautifies, but also increases the shoe’s durability. They are generally made from high quality leathers, such as bovine or goat leather, which provides an exceptional finish and comfort, however suede is always an alternative to consider.

Wholecuts are recommended for formal settings such as weddings, business meetings or sophisticated social events. They go well with slim-fit suits and can be worn in both traditional colours, such as black or brown, and bolder variants, such as patinas and print designs depending on the occasion. It’s important to keep them clean and moisturised to preserve the integrity of the leather and the shape of the shoe.

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The Oxford Shoe

Oxford
Oxford
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The Oxford Shoe

Oxfords, of British origin, date back to the 17th century. Initially, they were worn by university students, but quickly gained popularity among the nobility and became an icon of masculine and feminine elegance. They are characterised by their closed design, in which the eyelets of the laces are sewn directly into the leather, usually 2×5 in number. Oxfords are often made of leather or suede, offering durability and sophistication. They are available in several variations, such as the brogue model, which features decorative perforations.

Recommended for formal occasions such as weddings, job interviews or corporate events, they go well with social outfits such as a suit or blazer and even with more casual looks when well coordinated. When choosing Oxfords, prioritise comfort and fit, as prolonged use can cause discomfort in ill-fitting shoes, and there’s nothing like oxfords made to the right size and shape.

Remember to check the authenticity of the material and the construction of the shoe, guaranteeing quality and durability. At suMisura you can buy your Oxfords in flex/blake or goodyear welt construction and in various leather and patina qualities.

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The Monks

Monks
Monks
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The Monks

Monks, or Monk strap shoes, have their roots in Europe, probably appearing in medieval monasteries, where monks wore these shoes for their practicality and comfort. They are characterised by a buckled sole instead of laces, which makes them an elegant alternative to classic shoes. There are different styles of monk strap, such as the single monk strap and the double monk strap, the latter being more formal.

These shoes are suitable for a variety of occasions, from business environments to semi-formal events. They can be combined with suits, blazers, tailored trousers or even jeans, offering a chic and modern aesthetic. It’s important to consider the material-leather or suede-and the colour, which can influence the formality of the look. Always choose a comfortable size and check the width differences when buying, preferably made-to-measure.

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The Derbys

Derbys
Derbys

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The Derbys

Derbys, also known as Derby shoes, are a classic type of men’s footwear characterised by their open-toe design. They appeared in the 19th century in England, initially as field shoes for cavalry practice. They are characterised by their sides that extend to the top, allowing for a more comfortable fit. Typically made of leather or suede, they can have a variety of finishes, from the simplest to the most elaborate, with details such as perforations (brogue).

Derbys are versatile and can be worn on a variety of occasions, from work to social events. They go well with formal clothes such as suits and blazers, but can also be worn casually with jeans and shirts. To ensure greater durability, it is advisable to take good care of the leather, using suitable cleaning and moisturising products.

It’s always a good idea to check that they suit your personal style and the environment in which they will be used. Favour made-to-measure.

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The Brogues

Brogues
Brogues

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The Brogues

British brogues, a variant of Oxfords, were initially designed to be worn on rough terrain. The name “brogue” comes from the Gaelic word “bróg,” which means shoe. Traditionally made of leather, brogues have perforated details, which distinguish them from oxfords. There are several variations, such as the full brogue, the semi-brogue and the quarter brogue, which differ in the number of perforations and design.

Brogues can be worn on a variety of occasions, from formal events to more relaxed work environments. They go well with tailored trousers, chinos and even jeans, offering a sophisticated touch. To maintain their durability, we recommend using leather cream and storing them properly. Choose your brogues made to measure.

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The True Blue Blazer

Blazer
Blazer

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The True Blue Blazer

J. Carlston writes in “Rowing Blazers” that the name “blazer” comes from a loose-fitting garment made of thick wool in a fiery red colour that “shone” and at the same time protected the Oxford and Cambridge rowers from the cold, damp mornings of training and races.

There is, however, another version and a second birth of the blazer which refers to the year 1837 and the captain of the royal frigate HMS Blazer, on the occasion of Queen Victoria’s visit, ordered his officers to replace the cufflinks with yellow brass buttons, and a jacket with gold buttons and the engraving of the frigate’s coat of arms was born to celebrate the occasion.

If the suit is king, the blue blazer is the prince of dressing and a must in any wardrobe due to its versatility in moving between different occasions – it can easily be combined with dress trousers for a work look, or with jeans and a tee for a casual date. The choice of fabric, such as wool, cotton or linen, and shades of blue from raven to sky, which over time has added other colours to the available palette.

In addition to its functionality, the blazer is also a symbol of power and professionalism. Its structure, with defined shoulders and a cut that emphasises the silhouette, gives the wearer a confident posture. In the corporate environment, it is often seen as an essential garment that demonstrates seriousness and attention to detail.

In short, the blazer is more than just a piece of clothing; it’s a style icon that continues to evolve with the times. Its versatility and elegance make it a timeless choice that should be present in the wardrobe of men who value style and good taste.

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