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What role does salt play in our lives? We don’t even think about what sodium chloride is anymore, it’s so ingrained in us. We tend almost to forget how important the detail is and, if we pay attention, in the end it’s almost the essence of everything.

Food without salt, it’s all there, but it’s bland. A life without salt is an empty life, a life without love, without the anima of detail, the guardian of essence. Just as a pinch of salt releases the myriad of flavours that the palate identifies, so the detail is capable of making our act of dressing not only a social code but, above all, the manifestation of the essence capable of giving us to the world in all the shapes and colours that we keep within us.

It’s the detail that will make that blue blazer “my blue blazer”, that suit “my wedding suit”, that jacket “my bomber”. The detail is capable of transforming the ordinary into the sophisticated, the anonymous into the personalised, the banal into personality, the mass-market into the exclusive.
So let’s talk about details as if we were seasoning, hardening our clothes and the attention we should pay to detail in these suMisura proposals. To return to the street, to social life, to being human.

The rarest salt in the seasoning of our elegance is to find the same colour belt as the shoe. It’s hard to find the right brown or black, which can be matt, shiny or embossed, so it’s never possible to find the perfect pair. If we’re looking for shoes, a belt, a bag and a wallet, then it’s a Herculean task and destined to fail.

suMisura has the almost magical solution to solve this lack of salt in your wardrobe with guaranteed success, making itself available to all its customers and able to make thousands of combinations of materials, guaranteeing that the colour, pattern or leather used on the shoes, bag, belt or wallet will be exactly the same and completely customisable.

Summer goes well with fresh looks where elegance isn’t left behind – especially when the main piece is a tailored shirt.

The high quality standards of suMisura made-to-measure shirts are the result of the criteria used to choose unconventional raw materials and fabrics, such as those from the Thomas Mason and David & John Anderson brands, among others. In the end, when it comes to bespoke summer shirts, the ultimate goal is to guarantee fabrics of the highest quality, which come to life in a bold style of timeless sophistication.

At the suMisura atelier, we have at your disposal refined items made from fine Sea Island cotton yarns or the exclusive Giza 87 – ideal for creating particularly bright fabrics. Combined with our BioFusion organic cotton, these are the three strong elements for spring/summer 2022 men’s fashion, developed under the following criteria: colour, tailored blue shirt and heritage.

Colour

A journey through custom-made coloured shirts, in a range of surprising colours that define the collection: yellow, orange, coral, klein blue and even reinterpretations of more sophisticated shades such as mint green, soft pink and classic off white.

Bespoke Blue Shirt

A must-have for this spring/summer 2022 men’s fashion season. A tailored blue shirt is the absolute protagonist of the men’s wardrobe, reinterpreted in solid, multi-stripe or two-tone colours.

Inheritance

A history of style that began in 1976 has much to reaffirm its origins. From the typical British tradition, Thomas Mason has rediscovered in its centuries-old archives men’s shirts with patterns and colours capable of weaving new tales of elegance.

Connubium, or the celebration of marriage. That’s how we know the wedding ceremony.

In fact, in the connubium, the woman is the protagonist, hence the origin of the expression matrimony, from the term mater – a woman capable of bearing children, the mother – and monium, referring to the formal union, or even the ritual of union. The man will be responsible for providing and managing the assets so that the mater is fulfilled.

It’s an important ceremony of passage and alliance, and so it’s also the rebirth of a couple for a new life, which, as in nature, has its right time in spring.

We’re in the process of preparing for the ceremony. Amongst the huge list of specifications are the items relating to the attire of the bride and groom, their parents, godparents and wedding guests.

suMisura’s suggestions for wedding dress range from the tuxedo to elegant, less formal alternatives that dignify the groom in the eyes of the bride and make him stand out in the eyes of everyone, even in more natural settings such as farms or manor houses.

If the choice comes down to what a groom should wear at the wedding (the “groom’s dress”), the tailcoat (or “morning suit”) is a proposal that allows for any colour, pattern or type of fabric, elevating the party in the sun when the wedding takes place until five in the afternoon. Other solutions, such as the long coat, are just as effective as the tailcoat in terms of elevation, with the added bonus of being able to use more graphic and refined fabrics, such as brocades, velvets, etc. without fear.

On most occasions, the groom prefers something that won’t be consumed that day, like the bride’s dress, and that he can wear again the suit he wore for his wedding at a later date that requires something more than a business suit. For this option, suMisura’s range of fabrics is also very comprehensive and the variety of models and details make it possible to transform any classic into a charming piece.

If you’re getting married or know someone who is getting married this spring, the best advice is to book now. suMisura has a talented team ready to host and dress the ceremony of new life.

Brightening up the reception of the New Year comes from ancient times and faraway places. Where does this tradition of dressing up for the occasion come from?

In time it goes back thousands of years, in space we can trace traditions back to Rome, but even further back in time. Before sequins and glitter, it is in pagan tradition that we find the oldest manifestations of glamour on this special occasion and it is believed that the oldest comes from old Scotland, from the celebration of the last day of the year, Hogmanay, and the welcoming of a new period that is hoped to be prosperous and with good harvests.

Dressed in animal skins, people ran and danced around bonfires wielding torches to purify the place where they lived. Dressed in skins that could be a form of mask or just a symbol that this was a special day of general revelry and new beginnings.

If this was the case in Scotland, things were somewhat similar in Rome to what we still practise today. In 742 AD, St Boniface, a missionary from England, visited Rome and came across a public feast with tables laden with food and drink and people singing and dancing in pure celebration. And, just as we still celebrate Mardi Gras in Mississippi today, the women carried necklaces of amulets with them, which they auctioned off to the highest bidder and thus pleased their gods.

For their part, the Babylonians considered New Year’s Eve to be a leap from Chaos to Order, and they too wore the most luxurious, glittering and richest things in their wardrobes, because this moment of welcoming the New Order deserved nothing less.

If we take a giant leap back in time, we’ll see our appetite for counting down the final days of the year that is ending and reserving this special time of year to feel as special as we can, wearing the best, most sparkling and elegant clothes our wardrobe has to offer, ready for joy, for the full manifestation of who we are, surrounded by dance, music and hope for better and good days in the year to come.

From the reserved family atmosphere and reflection on the year that was ending at the beginning of the 19th century, the New Year’s Eve celebration took on an atmosphere of revelry and noise never seen before on Broadway in 1916. Church bells, factory whistles, ferryboats and all kinds of ships echoed simultaneously as time turned to the New Year, something never shown before and which marked future celebrations.

Glamour and boundless joy, naked of pride and prejudice, are the new ritual elected for the Order, so new that it is traditional to debut a new item of clothing on the first day of the year or even fulfil a wish, a vow or give up an addiction.

New Year’s Eve has become a real catwalk, driven by women but soon to be followed by men on this journey from fur to pearls and glitter.
This year, once again, the great festival of joy and fire, everyone’s Hogmanay with the world, is once again jeopardised by a virus that insists on preventing us from being who we are with each other, but our proposal is that we don’t make it easy or give in to the enemy.

Let’s make our own home the bonfire ground, let’s take a spark of light and a glass of something that bubbles and awakens our sense of smell, dressed in glamour, with something we don’t wear in our daily working, social or leisure lives, something that really makes us feel that we are a being that loves, thinks, creates and desires, and each one is one.

Come in a dinner jacket or the best suit in the wardrobe and a shirt for special occasions. It’s bow tie day, tie day or scarf day, but let it shine like the wearer, the cufflink or grandad’s tie pin.

Put your best foot forward, be your best, wish for your best and do your best Hogmanay. And if suMisura can make a contribution, use our contact details and we’ll be delighted to be with you in the form of a piece to wear on New Year’s Eve.

At first glance, we intuit hope, which doesn’t mean waiting around but taking action towards a future that we want to achieve because it is caused by us. That’s why this acronym of four capital letters stands for the English phrase How to Optimise People and Environment and is yet another brilliant creation by our fabric partner Drapers, the flagship brand of the Italian house Vitale Barberis Canonico 1663, especially dedicated to haute tailoring.

In a deep commitment to environmental awareness, suMisura embraces valid and serious projects such as this one to optimise people and the environment as a way of respecting the environment and the people who live in it. The H.O.P.E. fabric portfolio is an offer of sustainable fabrics and a positive message from the brand, with which suMisura is allied, so that the voices that believe it is possible to live in a world that is better than it is, at the roots of what it once was, can be heard.

A great deal of research and study has gone into finding fibres with unexpected natural colours, expressed in their purity, such as the traditional Moretta sheep, native to Spain, which expresses itself in dark colours, or Eri silk, which naturally appears ivory-white or in a beautiful reddish-orange tone, the result of the environment in which they breed and the different types of food that nature offers them. Another important note about the sustainable production of this silk thread is that it is only collected when the butterfly leaves the chrysalis to nourish itself on the nectar of the flowers and reproduce.
H.O.P.E. is a fabric made from fibres coloured by nature and not by the use of industrial chemicals, the result of a rediscovery of ancestral techniques obtained from infusions of plants, flowers, roots, fruit and even oak bark that give the fibres new colours.

Literally enter this new world wearing a blazer, jacket or shawl that is truly organic, sustainable and optimises the human being and the environment in which you live.

The world’s concerns about the preservation of the planet’s environment, the protection of life and the ethical selection of the raw materials of choice in clothing come to suMisura through our clients and the responses we propose are the result of the criteria for choosing the partners we work with, particularly in terms of tailoring and shirt fabrics, companies with strong environmental concerns and large investments in these three dimensions of a new and disruptive way of dressing that lives in the consciousness of the new consumer.

In both tailoring and shirting, innovative solutions are now available to our customers who, in addition to the usual quality of our offer, can now count on fabrics with properties that fulfil these needs for more sustainable production.

Partnership with the prestigious Italian cotton house Albini, which, together with Swiss scientists, has developed Viro.Block Technology effective in destroying viruses and bacteria that reach the fabric, or in the comfort of stretch cotton when performance is important.

Special wool twists to give the fabric elasticity and resilience, adding comfort and wrinkle resistance, are the result of a Scabal portfolio called Turbo Travel, which offers a comprehensive range of solid, versatile shades for a suit, blazer or high-performance trousers for active, dynamic lives where travelling is everyday.

In addition, together with the Italian brand Fratelli Tallia di Delfino, suMisura’s tailoring service offers the Defender portfolio of tailored suit, blazer and trouser fabrics in the complete Gentlemans Wardrobe collection. As the name suggests, this capsule collection combines plain and executive patterns and was born for safety and protection. Maintaining the soft touch of high-quality Italian fabric, in a partnership with the Scandinavian company Polygiene, which originated the ViralOff technology, Defender is a fabric with antimicrobial, water-repellent, naturally elastic and breathable properties, and guarantees the elimination of 99 per cent of viruses in a very short space of time.

SuMisura Mestres de Medida’s made-to-measure suits are already a benchmark in terms of cut and high quality. This was another step, tailored to the new man who wants more from his own ability to reinvent himself and find the solutions capable of serving his ever-evolving environmental conscience.

Travelling is about coming and going, with fun, culture, work, family and friends in between. What more could we want when we travel? Comfort. Carrying the necessities in our luggage and an elegant style that matches us.

Travelling, work and face-to-face meetings are back, and with them the executive code. Male or female, the tailored suit or tailleur is the choice when business is serious. For a more business casual look, depending on the professional area, the solution is a sports blazer, chinos or classic five pockets.

So what’s new that can make our trip more enjoyable and our clothes comfortable and foolproof? suMisura’s proposal is the travel solution. What is it?
For the habitual business traveller, efficiency and adaptability are values that must be present in their work wardrobe, and a new collection has been designed and developed with our partners, namely Scabal, one of our most prestigious fabric partners.

To meet these demands, Scabal has presented us with a complete portfolio of stripes and patterns called “Turbo Travel – High Technology Stretch”, a perfect choice for the modern man and woman who like to travel light.

Breathable and wrinkle-resistant, they are ideal for carrying in a handbag. Lightweight and with a comfortable natural stretch, water-resistant finish, they are the ideal fabrics for staying cool in hot weather and dry in humid climates. The wallet features a palette of plain colours, mélange or bold plaids in double twist yarn that suggest a three-dimensional look in a harmonious combination of microfibre, wool and elastane.

But the trip can be pure leisure, in which case everything changes, giving preference to more casual and relaxed looks, always versatile so that a stroll through the city or a visit to the museum becomes a pleasant adventure of comfort, elegance and style. These are the moments of the blazer, the shacket – our version of the overshirt with quality details -, the bomber or the safari, to be worn with chinos or the classic five-pockets, in traditional denim or in another vibe-mood for the occasion. At suMisura, we give total freedom to the originals, which may not just be cotton twill or denim, and the charm of a city five-pocket in flannel or cordroy will reflect in style the character and sophistication of being unique and exclusive!

Travel for business or pleasure with suMisura Mestres de Medida and make your trip what you want it to be: an elegant and unique experience of freedom.

The challenge of protecting ourselves from the elements is as old as man himself. In the case of rain, what we know as a “mackintosh” has a history that goes back to the Vikings who insulated their clothes with animal oil, the North American Indians who used animal fat or the Incas who used resin from the rubber tree.

The industrial revolution would add chemical additives and the leap in quality came from the use of leftovers from steel production when a Glasgow chemist, Charles Macintosh, used naphtha, a by-product of tar, as a rubber solvent to create an efficient glue for joining and bonding two woollen fabrics by passing them through a roller. He patented this process in 1823. It wasn’t a success because the heat prevented the materials from being used properly and made it difficult to sew them together. It was after 20 years that the optimal solution was achieved with the patent for vulcanisation.

The mid-19th century saw a breakthrough in waterproofing techniques, with solutions coming from the needs of maritime navigation, both in waterproofing sails and crew clothing. Around 1879 Thomas Burberry patented the gabardine, a waterproof cotton twill fabric that, warped diagonally, protected against the cold and made raindrops slide off.

A crucial step in the breathability of waterproof fabric was taken in 1930, when John Barbour & Sons began using paraffin wax and achieved a high-performance fabric that was waterproof, breathable and protective at the highest level. At the end of the 20th century, the technological revolution of Gore Tex, a fabric whose mesh is smaller than a water molecule but larger than a water vapour molecule, made the leap to the 21st century, where the offer is of anti-wind and anti-rain jackets, extremely light and with the elegant fall that captivates our taste. Then you have to choose the most attractive model, from the longest Chesterfield trench coat to the shortest Peacoat trench coat, as our allies against the winter weather.

But if the days aren’t rainy and it’s just cold, the executive man can’t do without his winter lifesaver: The Overcoat.

Born at the end of the 18th century, the overcoat was a key part of a gentleman’s wardrobe. Often linked to the more formal dress code, it represented professional or military status, in a style that with very few additions or alterations adapted to the various trends of the time.

During the Regency, the overcoat was belted to the body, often fastened/crossed with seams at the waist and with a generous hem. It grew in popularity and reached the working class, becoming wider to respond to a new consumer and accommodate different lifestyles.

Widely used by the army and navy until the 1950s, it was eventually abandoned by them for reasons of mobility in combat, but it didn’t leave social wardrobes, on the contrary: it gained must-have status.

The British Teddy-Boy subculture adopted the overcoat in an iconic way, and other subcultures like the Skinheads or the Swedenheads haven’t abandoned the symbolism of the overcoat. Today, this time-honoured classic is the expressive garment of winter days, because it covers everything and yet reveals what we want others to know about us.

A lover of quality suits or blazers should have more than one overcoat in their wardrobe for that very reason. Investing in a good overcoat ensures that wherever you are, your signature style and elegance will be imprinted.

The tailor-made overcoat is not only an important factor in the balance and harmony of the silhouette, but it is also a way of adapting to time and space. The original models accept a wide variety of style options and can be made in a huge range of patterns and colours, depending on whether you can afford it or just want to use it.

You can choose from woollen overcoats, cashmere or vicuña, or opt for the trendy mix of wool and elastane, which the market calls travel, given its anti-wrinkle properties and high resilience to movement. Open your wardrobe and, if you can’t find any overcoats, it’s time to go to your tailor and touch the quintessence of style, which is “having” your overcoat made.

If nothing else, due to changes in lifestyles, the pandemic has been able to go into the trunks of classics and revive icons that have long been forgotten.
Classics such as the “Bomber Jacket”, the “Norfolk” and, the hit of summer XXI, the Safari Jacket, came out of the box and are here to stay.

At suMisura, we continue to advocate “Suit Means Business” for when life is elevated and taken more seriously. However, the times have brought a little more casualness into our lives and, in this case, causality in the suMisura O/I 21/22 offer, in a disruptive way and yet with the standards of elegance and quality to which our customers are accustomed.
We sought out the lightness of shirt construction, offered jacket finishes and a huge range of tailoring fabrics that gave rise to a cause for dressing: The Shacket.
Let’s understand this causality in elegant casualwear and this kid who has just arrived in town.

If the concept of the Over-Shirt – a garment that descends directly from work shirts – is very much on trend and present in all fashion collections, this up-grade, baptised as the Shacket, not only elevates a mass casual garment to the manufacturing refinement of a sports jacket, but also opens up a whole range of possibilities in terms of fabrics, textures, weight and patterns. This “alchemy” of bringing together the best of both worlds, a profession of suMisura Mestres de Medida, once again results in a hybrid that brings together the best of the shirt and the best of the jacket, resulting in a concept that is both unique and all-encompassing.

 

The Shacket is inside and outside, it’s office and home, it’s country or beach, it’s relaxed or not, it’s autumn and spring, it’s summer and winter, and it’s in this versatility that the Shacket manifests itself as a piece of excellence that’s here to stay. From cotton or linen knitwear, to cotton or woollen trench coats, from linen to couture, in denim or tweeds, from the most rustic to the most luxurious, such as supreme cashmere, the options are immense to fulfil relaxed elegance on all occasions and in all environments, for more or less sophisticated tastes.

The Shacket is a certainty in the face of the uncertainty of not knowing what to wear for a particular occasion or in an indeterminate era, such as this post-pandemic one. It’s a time of major changes in codes and values, and even in everyday life-savers. At suMisura, we believe that the Shacket has the potential to be the piece that solves, that scores and that wins (reminiscent of a certain Portuguese football star).

Make an appointment to visit the suMisura atelier, have your Shacket made and join a world as elegant as a jacket and as light as a shirt.

Rose was the name of a ship belonging to the East India Company which, anchored in Begala Bay, welcomed on board Major Lieutenant Sir Harry Burnett “Joe” Lumsden (12 November 1821 – 12 August 1896). This is the man who, in order to camouflage the white woollen trousers of his uniform, used a mixture of coffee, curry and blackberries to dye the trousers. He achieved a shade of dye called khaki – in the local language it means dust – which suited the characteristics of arid theatres very well. The term khaki, which refers to a shade of textile dye applied to a twill or cotton twill, will merge with the term chino’s which originates from the Spanish-American war in the Philippines in 1898, where American troops bought khaki cotton trousers from Chinese people whom the Hispanics called chinos.

So we’re talking about lineage when we refer to an icon that’s almost two centuries old. Respect!

From trousers with a plain front, it evolved to 4 pockets and from there to the most varied style interpretations by the biggest names in fashion over the last 100 years. Competing since the 1950s with a major rival, blue jeans, Chino’s, which manifests its character in the beige spectrum, began to accept all kinds of colours after the colour boom in Europe in the 1980s with the Benetton five pocket, but it is in the beige and stone tones that Chino’s affirms its versatility in chromatic terms as almost the perfect match with most of the colours to be combined and in terms of performance, on land, sea or air, it has practically unbeatable usability.

Chino’s has gone from military warehouses to large retailers and international ready-to-wear brands such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and others, but it is in its arrival in the world of made-to-measure that Chino’s will truly meet the man, each man and each woman, as a human being, in their individuality. This means that Chino’s has evolved from “all fit” to “brand fit”, to “regular fit” and “slim fit”, and is now on the exclusive podium of “my fit”, with all the options open to say that this is my Chino’s, and my Chino’s wasn’t bought as a kilo of something, but made to order according to what each person wants.

In addition to having the right waist, hip and buttock curvature, knee curvature and the right leg width and the customer’s preferred mouth width, which guarantees perfect wearability, the tailor-made chino’s trousers also have the possibility of personalisation with options that allow the choice of buttons, type of pockets, types of stitching, contrasting thread colours, width and number of belt loops or the choice of jackpant waistband with drawstring, type of pockets, type of stitching, contrast thread colours, width and number of belt loops or the option of a jackpant waistband with drawstring, a choice of pocket linings and embroidery with the customer’s initials, among others.

 

If these characteristics weren’t enough on their own to make you opt for made to measure or chino’s tailored to your body and style, the icing on the “cake” is what really makes it possible to choose fabrics, colours and patterns. The mixture of these three elements may seem strange, but let’s decode it and open the door a little wider to dressing with the attitude of “made to measure”, and understand how it is possible for a garment as everyday as chino’s, perhaps even ordinary, to bring exclusivity and more than that, authenticity.

For those with a taste for their roots, the cotton options include weight and finish possibilities ranging from light panama wash effect, to light summer twill, as well as more generous weight twills for cold weather or more demanding performances. The excellent options allow you to choose from ordinary cottons to blends of cotton with polyester and elastane when performance is required, or from cottons and noble fibres such as cashmere for more sensory and sophisticated use.

All these fabric options are assorted in the colours available, where the ever-present beige spectrum that goes from “stone” to “almost green” is joined by blues, browns and expressive warm colours for something really different. If that’s the case, that’s good enough, but the options go beyond cottons and a chino option in aflannel or calvary twill is something that stands out, distinguishes and defines a sophisticated and creative spirit.

Talking about something creative brings us to those who, in addition to elegance and sophistication, also want to say something irreverent about themselves and ask themselves questions in order to broaden their horizons: “Why not chinos in Scottish tartan or Prince of Wales? A wide stripe or a Mediterranean plaid?”

These are the reasons for bespoke chinos, which are an excellent first step for those who want to get started in the world of modern tailoring made to measure. They are also the next step in sophistication for all those, like our customers, who have already mastered the concept of “having a suit made”, which they have learnt from the past and found again in the present, cultivating it further because it has expanded and today you can “have made” any item of clothing, even the popular chino’s have gained one of a kind status.

Some innovations in suMisura chinos are the choice of fabrics other than cotton, the special hem for casual shoes and the bold gurkha waistband.