Author: admin

There’s no big wedding… there’s a big wedding!
The government’s deconfinement regulations have opted for a small wedding. Our proposal is a big wedding, within the rules of the law!
2021 will be the year of the most beautiful and elegant bride and groom, and the best man will play the transformative role of investing a little more in the bride and groom, while saving on the wedding.

The wedding ceremony calls for something different, elegant and elevated. In the case of men, there are some ceremonial dress code rules for men, namely:

Fraque or morning suit… and that’s it. The tailcoat is worn at ceremonies held until tea time, i.e. until 5pm. It’s our day suit elevated to the ceremony. Any type of fabric, colour and pattern is allowed as long as the traditional cut of the jacket is respected. The most commonly used is the anthracite tailcoat, with a light grey waistcoat and fancy striped trousers. The classic collared shirt, with or without cuffs, pleats, tie and black shoes. However, this is only the most popular combination, as it guarantees its use in other ceremonies later on, where simply changing the colour of the waistcoat and tie can make a difference. In fact, the range of possibilities is immense and you only have to take a look at the morning ceremonies in England, such as the horse races at Ascot, for example, to realise some of the countless possibilities for wearing a tailcoat. Dress code is morning suit.

The dinner jacket and the dinner jacket. The dinner jacket, a two-piece suit with a velvet, satin or silk shantung waistband, is usually black or midnight blue, but other colours can be used, and the trousers have pockets on the seams and a silk waistband on the side. The shirt can have a classic collar or turned-up ends, and the sash and bow tie complete the ensemble. Imported from France, the dinner jacket was introduced as a dinner jacket in the USA and in a version of the jacket different from trousers, taking the name of dinner jacket. In fact, the dinner jacket is the version that offers the most options and accepts noble fabrics for the jacket, with silk brocades in plaid, stripes, paisley and other patterns. It is worn at ceremonies after 5pm and corresponds to the black tie dress code.

The jacket or cricket flaps. When the ceremony is the highest in the social order, the jacket must be worn. State ceremonies and other manifestations of regency (like the conductors who “conduct” orchestras) require this attire, which cannot be altered – otherwise we would be subverting order. The jacket, in barathea or black alpaca, has cricket flaps and its front is unbuttoned. The trousers always have two black satin stripes. The shirt, with its collar with folded ends, is always white and preferably in a fabric with a similar stitch to the waistcoat. The waistcoat, also white, only has a front and the back is made up of elasticated bands. The bow tie is the same as the waistcoat fabric. The dress code is white tie.

The froc. Originating from our tailcoat, the froc is a Victorian ancestor of our current paletot and has long been adopted for weddings and parties. It is a slightly longer than usual paletot with a rounded back. It includes elements of all the examples listed above and is versatile, like the dinner jacket, so it can be used with greater creativity in the play of fabrics, patterns and colours.

Last but not least, formalwear should be tailor-made to respect the fit of each body. For suits for sophisticated events, hire is not recommended and ready-to-wear is a challenge. At suMisura, our speciality process is made to measure, ensuring that your tuxedo is made to measure.

Tailoring offers models for weddings on the beach or in the countryside, or even the possibility of dressing the groomsmen alike. To complete the look, don’t forget accessories or shoes customised to your taste. Our masters will ensure that the model is tailor-made and appropriate for the occasion.

If the most beautiful woman in the world is the bride, this year may the most gallant be the groom. May the wedding be a wedding of elegance, a huge wedding of love, good taste and fashion, to remember later.

 

Fernando Pereira, CEO of SuMisura, spoke to João Jacinto, the author of The Gentleman blog, and the result is an article about the elegance of those who take their dress seriously.

Read the conversation here:

Fernando Pereira, an elegant man. We missed this conversation with one of the men in Lisbon who knows the most about tailoring and its art. The son of a merchant trained at the renowned Lourenço & Santos, and a mother who was a seamstress for illustrious Lisbon tailors, he began his professional life in 1977 at Pigalle, a high-end shop founded by his father in Faro.

Having already had experience in the trade and distribution of prestigious international brands in Portugal, in 1998 Fernando, sensing the changes that were coming in the sector, deepened his textile knowledge at the Catalan company Gorina s.a. and began working in the art of made to measure with prestigious international houses such as Italy’s Ravazzolo.

In 2002 he decided to embark on a pioneering adventure in Portugal by founding suMisura Mestres de Medida Lisboa, totally dedicated to bespoke tailoring and shirting. Over the 18 years of the company’s life, Fernando Pereira, who is above all passionate about his métier, has gathered not only experience but also a comprehensive and effective list of partnerships with renowned artisans and craftsmen in the trades of weaving, tailoring, shirting, shoemaking and accessories, which guarantee the excellence of the garments that suMisura produces for its clients.

 

 

1. What is an elegant man?

I’d call a nine-year-old boy in the 1980s called Vitor Barroca Moreira who, on a wall, painted what he thought Love was “It’s a green bird in a blue field at dawn”, because for me it’s the most assertive.

To put it in a reductive way, i.e. in relation to dressing and dressing alone, pre-pandemic would be something like: To be elegant is to be aware of “dressing for the occasion” without any effort or doubt. This has to do with a culture of the sophistication of simplicity. Being elegant at this level goes beyond tips on how to wear a suit, a blazer, chinos and possible combinations. Let’s note that the way to approach the subject is not to “have” but to “be” elegant, which implies values related to the balance of opposites and gender harmony in both colours and shapes so that, beyond the occasion, elegance speaks for who you are.

Being thin, being fat, being exuberant or discreet are not about elegance, they are about ephemeral concepts of aesthetics. Elegance simply has to reflect a personality and be very easily intelligible to others. And this is where a relationship between a stylist, tailor or shopkeeper and their client should begin.

 

 

2. Which items are essential in a man’s wardrobe and why?

Until a year ago the answer would have been obvious, after knowing what kind of man we were talking about and his daily life and needs. I’m fully convinced that the role of clothing items will undergo profound changes.

However, if we’re talking about the type of client who visits suMisura the most, who is an active man, businessman, executive or professional in areas such as law or consultancy and who is looking to build his professional wardrobe, I would say to start with the TOP FIVE essentials, namely: An anthracite suit, a dark blue suit, a diplomatic stripe no longer than 20mm, a small pattern (agrée, birds eye, salt & pepper, herringbone, etc.) and a dark blue blazer, perhaps, with appropriate taste, the most versatile piece.

Always wear a dinner jacket and, if possible, a tailcoat. Given the question, I won’t mention the jacket. For leisure, chinos and jeans, a bomber and a sports jacket. White or pale blue shirts for the working week, two polo shirts and two sports shirts for casual time. I’d say these are the basics for a man to look good for any event or occasion. I’ve only referred to the model and pattern and left the most important for last.

The most important thing is to know where you live in terms of climate and to match the fabrics to the climate and performance you want. This is where the knowledge of what a warp is, the composition and weight of fabrics, both in tailoring and shirting, comes in, and this is a subject for real treatises.

 

3. Is there a role model when it comes to male elegance?

Not really. And all the ones I can mention are so old that nobody remembers them any more. I must confess, without any kind of moralism or judgement that comes from other trades, that when I’m singled out by someone who is “Top” these days, I rarely think it’s elegance, often exhibitionism.

A man with a beard, displaying tattoos, adorned with metal, round sunglasses, is called a dandy, a hipster… every year there’s a geek consuming the creators’ trends. Elegance tends towards style and style has little room to show itself.

 

4. Honoré de Balzac said in his work On Dress and Eating that a man could be known by the tie he wore. Care to comment?

Of course. I congratulate you on your question. Beau Brummel, Wilde or Balzac actually transport us to the elegance we’ve been talking about and the tie is a very particular subject. We don’t know what’s coming, but what came was not good. A few years ago, a man with slicked-back hair, a dark suit, a shirt open to the chest showing a precious metal wire and a crucifix would have been connoted by non-verbal language as something far removed from serious leadership.

On the other hand, the near excommunication of the tie by a new working class that is much less sedentary and more solitary has spread to all areas of service. A law firm, an auditing company or a bank that uses (still) codes of conduct and dress and, the suit is usually dark, almost everyone in a white shirt, and now no tie. Is it freedom of the individual or social corporatism? A candidate for President of the Republic, by aligning himself with this corporatism, in this electioneering case, of dressing badly, just like everyone else, gave off the image of a cultured man fresh from a severe diet rather than someone energetic and confident.

The range of shirt collars exists precisely to respond to the compromise between the type of neck (high, low, thin or bulky) as well as the use and type of tie knot that best suits each one, and the myriad of patterns, textures and fabrics responds to the season, fashion statement and, above all, speaks of us, while in silence.

And then this citizen, so different from any other citizen, took off his tie, unbuttoned three buttons and discovered a new problem and need: a collar that is composed, without a tie, for any type of neck, an all-in-one that will restore some of the dignity that has been lost. Frankly, I don’t foresee a very good future for this lady of elegance. Mr Balzac knew very well what he was talking about when he spoke of this garment that is caressed when put on.

 

 

5. Men’s fashion has undergone changes in recent times. How do you see the future of Made to Measure?

Made to measure is an excellent solution for those who take their dressing seriously, and one that I think should come closer to the consumer than it has so far. Made to measure doesn’t mean “made to measure” and doesn’t stop at wedding suits or business suits. In the case of suMisura, the measure exists across the board: everything that can be made to measure, we do.

Suits, shirts, blazers, knitwear, shoes, snickers, ties, chinos, jeans, accessories – it’s a whole range that places made to measure on the pinnacle between classic tailoring and shirting and ready-to-wear and, in our case, with an extensive range of smart casual and leisure options. I think that throughout the chain the wool industry will have a Herculean and complicated task ahead of it, and we’ll see this change right from the source, namely in the merino herds of Australia and New Zealand that supply the whole world with this natural and noble fibre, superfine wool, which will have to compete with technological textiles.

The garment factories will also have to weather this storm. It’s not going to be easy, but if there’s one industry that has proved its resilience, it’s this one, and it will continue.

I don’t know the future and I don’t think anyone knows for sure much more than that many parameters will change, particularly in terms of consumption. I believe that Made to Measure has all the weapons to overcome the post-pandemic recovery and I’m sure that it will have a marvellous reunion with its customers, so that it can start working again, events can return and customers can move around and buy without fear or restriction.

Discover The Gentleman blog here.

COMFORT IS THE NEW BLACK

While in a state of pandemic, the clothing industry is in a state of lethargy. The blood of creativity has nowhere to flow. The stages of life are closed. There are no weddings or christenings, no conferences or conventions, no receptions or vernissages, no red wine stains or tears in pockets. Industry is suspended across the board. In the uncertainty of the future, the most resilient industry in history, since mankind was covered, does not faint in the face of the unknown and prepares for a future that always appears. As a master measurer at suMisura, I am one of those resilient dreamers of the future, I believe in life and in people, and I have this conviction.

Just when we were craving organic and sustainable products, the pandemic brought out the dormant flower of comfort. That home comfort that I want with me always and wherever I am, will be the protagonist of post-pandemic fashion. Another New Black.

Because what is Caesar’s is Caesar’s – a business meeting won’t be a trip to the kiosk, a special dinner won’t be a game of paddel, nor a social ceremony a parade.
The suit will continue to be the expression of “suit means business”, or for when things are serious, made in increasingly fine and comfortable wools, and blazers will reign in the realm of the avant-garde concepts of sustainable, organic, wash&go, made in lightweight constructions and sober cuts for the various everyday situations.

The deconstructed jacket, the soft waistband trousers, the resilient fabrics with applied physico-chemical properties will be a whole new world for comfortable elegance. Fantasy in the world of printing and sublimation and creativity in patterns and textures will have no limits. Festive occasions will no longer be “the usual”, as they used to be, but will recover their roots of true celebration, of dressing to the nines, redefining the term “ceremony”, because it’s the celebration of life that’s coming, and it’s not lived in pyjamas. We sleep in our pyjamas.

Human bodies will continue to be what they are, retaining the marks of their lineage, character and life path, manifested in a more prominent or more closed posture, a longer arm, legs that curve slightly, a more protruding chest, a more sloping shoulder, a thin neck or a happier tummy. Everyone will continue to be able to express their personality in their dressing and contribute to the realisation of their garment. These are the marks of our authenticity and diversity, which ready-to-wear cannot understand, which affirm who we are and confirm the resilience of one of the world’s oldest trades in the service of Creation’s greatest work. The new normal is the one we are experiencing, an abnormality in our relationships that we will overcome in a return to the future and to the life that we know is good and to which craftsmen and shepherds, engineers and technicians, designers and masters of art contribute, who even in confinement are working – quieto fuori e si move d’intro – so that lethargy has an end and is glorified in the metamorphosis from larva to butterfly made to embrace the wind with the wings of freedom.

Offer the fabric in this beautiful box specially designed to hold a shirt cut and the opportunity to come to the workshop so that the recipient and the Master can make the magic of the best Christmas gift. Infallible!
If you can’t come to the atelier, ask us for the App with all the fabrics available, send us the wishlist and we’ll contact you with the details.

Ordering fabrics through the app can seem complicated, given the number of fabrics available and the fact that they come in various patterns and colours. But the app is very user-friendly and intuitive when searching by various criteria for the fabric, colour or pattern you want. You can configure the climate you live in, the type of beard you wear or don’t wear, your style of dress, ending up with the obvious pattern and colour.
What may be lacking in information is actually the quality/price ratio, and that’s where we’re going to help.

We know that the Oxford is an assemblage of warp on the loom, i.e. it has a typical appearance and texture, which is why it has a character and a name. The different interlacing of the threads on the loom give different textures and result in the Oxford, the Twill, the Poplin, the Zephir, the Royalone, etc. Some are used more for classic shirts, others for casual shirts, and there are even jerseys, which are a knitted assembly (another article on the blog with more information).

Each sample has useful information such as the reference, type, yarn composition and washing instructions, but one of the most important is the weight per linear metre. It gives us the closest impression of the thickness of the fabric and its performance.

Very important in this binomial is the wire, its thickness and the type that is referred to, for example: 100/2 or 140/2 or 80/1.

The left of the bar refers to the fineness of the cotton fibre, which allows for a yarn capable of weaving 100 threads per inch. To the left of the bar is the number of threads that go into the loom which, if it says 2, means that two threads have been twisted for greater strength and softness in the final fabric. The higher the number on the left and the one on the right, the finer and rarer the fabric, the more luxurious and obviously more expensive.

Most quality fabrics available on the market, for example poplin, come in 100 or 120/2. If what you find seems “cheap” to you, it’s because it’s cotton with single threads, not twisted and of inferior quality.

Let’s do it!

Download the Fabric Butler app available for Android e iOS, or ask us to send it to you with our code that distinguishes us as your shirtmaker, TC1386.
In the top menu you’ll find a selection of the latest seasonal products. In the menu below you can browse the entire catalogue.

In the “Browse the catalogue” section you can choose fabrics from 3 different brands for fabrics ranging from the most regular in design, quality and exclusivity (Albini), to the iconic brand of exclusive fabrics (Thomas Mason) and the most used in our home, culminating in the most luxurious collection of yarns and fabrics in the world (David and John Anderson) for whom the sublime is enough.

On the bezel icon you can fine-tune your choice by various criteria.
Make your wishlist and send it to us to finalise your order with model data and/or measurements, if necessary.
We hope this is a good solution for your purchase of classic and sportswear in these times of pandemic and restrictions on socialising.
If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us by telephone or e-mail.

Even at a distance or at home, don’t neglect your stylish and elegant attitude. Life is there to be lived to the full.

Thank you

Bespoke golf shoes. Discover the creation platform

 

In a unique and innovative initiative, suMisura presents its platform for creating customised golf shoes. Far from the “rough and heavy” shoe, the suMisura golf shoe is positioned in the golf market to serve those who, as well as being lovers of the sport of golf, can’t do without their brand of style, even on the green. In Box Calf leather, Polished Leather, Suede or exotic leathers, customers can choose any classic city shoe base and personalise it 100%, in various combinations of materials and colours so that they can really make a statement: These are MY golf shoes. Not just because you own it, but because you can create a unique, exclusive shoe that sets you apart from the rest thanks to your taste and personal stamp, affirmed in the design and the initials of your name signing an unprecedented and personalised creation. Better than a “limited edition”, the suMisura golf shoe is an authentic and exclusive creation that distinguishes the wearer.

The application is available on our website https://www.sumisura.pt/, under the shoe tab. Click on Mens dress golf and start your creative work. You can buy directly through the website or, if you prefer, book an appointment to visit our atelier for further advice.

 

A bit of history

Just as clubs have evolved from flexible wooden sticks to metal, just as balls have evolved since the 1800s, so golf shoes have undergone drastic transformations since golfers learnt to put spikes or studs in the sole of their shoes. The “Golfers Manual” of 1857 recommended that novices use small nails or spikes placed in the sole for a better grip on the grassy, damp ground, replacing the walking boots that were the first footwear used on the course. In 1891, the first shoes with spikes screwed into the sole were born, but although they were an add-on for players, they were never well received by greenskeepers who accused the nail-like spikes of spoiling the quality of the turf.
In 1906, Spalding took advantage of the failed “saddle oxford” adapted to racket sports, and adapted it to golf, which proved to be a tremendous success in terms of popularity.
In 1990, the upgrade of nails/pitons and their metal fittings, which nevertheless ruined greens and clubhouse floors, was replaced by a plastic alloy, less aggressive and still capable of fulfilling the major objective of providing abrasion and safety for the golfer.

 

The suMisura shoe is at the forefront of this fantastic story of golf, which is gaining more and more fans and players as a healthy, competitive and social game, and which has the prerogative of ending up on the 19th hole socialising and chatting in the clubhouse bar, making friends, doing business or just living life as it should be lived.

 

In the photos:

Bespoke Masters presence at the Villas & Golf International Cup. 1st Gross prize, a pair of bespoke and totally personalised golf shoes.
#sumisura_Lisboa #villas&golfe #golfshoes #sapatospormedida #golffashion #portugalgolfe

 

Watch the event summary video here:

Smart Casual – Relaxed clothes with the elegance of tailored clothing

 

The natural ease that we enjoy in our own homes shouldn’t be synonymous with ease. An unexpected visit or a videoconference that deserves our best are opportunities to experience comfort and relaxation, without, however, losing our poise in front of others and the professional humour that doesn’t only exist in the company.

The good news is that it’s possible to look as stylish as you do in the comfort of a sweatshirt and that suMisura provides this tailor-made and personalised comfort in a wide range of outwear and inwear wardrobe items that we call Smart Casual and challenge you to discover.

The Casual Blazer.

The casual blazer is a garment that excels in comfort and freedom, made without lining and deconstructed, or rather, unstructured, due to the lack of interlining and interior fillings, but which still retains all the attention to detail. The choice of models, from fitted to jacket, and the button and stitch finishes guarantee satisfaction from the most discreet to the trendiest. The knitted blazer is also an excellent garment to fulfil the task of dressing comfortably and stylishly, without being a gilet or jacket. For a quick trip outside or a visit, the solution of the blazer with filler lozenges is unbeatable as a garment.

 

The Casual Trouser or Jackpant

Casual trousers combine the dress of classic trousers without the need for a belt and without detracting from a neat and elegant image.

The Casual Suit

It’s nothing more than the happy marriage between a jacket and trousers which, in the casual version, allows for a myriad of combinations of fabrics, colours and patterns.

Fabrics

Led by superfine wools with specially twisted yarns for comfort and resilience, the much-loved Traveler fabric has superior resilience to crinkling and wrinkles.

But the search for total comfort doesn’t stop there, because perhaps more appealing are knitted fabrics or soft flannels with elastic, cottons and velvets also with elastane for better recovery and elasticity.

The Casual Shirt

Another piece of good news is the return of tartan or plain fabrics, vayellas or coutlé in very soft and fine reinterpretations that are still warm and enveloping.

The model of the year is in fact the overshirt or overshirt that covers the sweatshirt, t-shirt or turtleneck with a casual and relaxed character and can be made in a wide variety of fabrics and patterns.

Chino’s and Jeans

You can buy your chinos or jeans in classic models or five pockets without having to limit yourself to the ordinary ones on the market or the sizes and models you can’t find. Personalisation, right down to the fabric of the pockets or the embroidery of initials, gives weekend trousers the personality of the wearer and the same demands that are made when having a suit made.

Snikers & Slipers

Your casual outfit won’t be complete without shoes. But which shoes? Just as sports shoes have their specialists, casual outdoor and indoor shoes are not for running a marathon, but for supporting the sophisticated taste and careful dressing you prefer. suMisura offers tailor-made casual shoes and fully personalised home shoes through our exclusive platform for creating shoes, bags and accessories. Create your own unique shoe design.

Despite the exceptional situation, it’s certainly not the smartest option for conveying a professional, well-groomed image.
SuMisura has prepared a Smart Casual line of suits, blazers, trousers and shirts that perfectly meet the demands of these new times.

One of the proposals (pictured) is a completely deconstructed blazer, i.e. the structural part of the chest and shoulder pads, as well as the lining, are not applied, which makes the jacket much lighter and more comfortable. The jack pant does away with the belt and waistband construction, maintaining the elegance of the garment. The fresh wool and traveller stitch fabric is very resilient to wrinkling and the washed cotton or cotton knit options make it even lighter. The polo shirt sits on this border and can be made in a variety of linen and cotton fabrics and collar options.

Don’t stop being who you are because things aren’t what they used to be. Feel at ease and comfortable without giving up or neglecting your self-esteem, good taste and the way you present yourself, to yourself and to the world. suMisura exists to make this possible.

Useful tips on winter shirts

The shirt is this winter’s protagonist. In exceptional times like these and because the tie is waiting for better times, let’s turn our attention to this exceptional star of the new practical and elegant dressing.

The hot word flannel is no longer synonymous with thick, uncomfortable or too warm. High-quality shirting fabrics provide new, elegant textures, patterns and solid colours in the finest Super 150’s wool, cotton flannels or cotton and wool blends. The nice surprise is the addition of cotton and cashmere blends where comfort meets sophistication and price completes the good news, this being the noble fibre of the Orient.

Modern brushing techniques give typical winter fabrics that soft, warm suede feel, whether in twills, flannels or even the finest coutlé, rare, subtle and yet classic in plain or more daring prints.

As a great proposal for the casual season, the overshirt is the practical solution for everyday wear or an online meeting, as an alternative to the blazer. Heavyweight yet lightweight fabrics give the over shirt a relaxed, comfortable and elegant weekend look, every day.

With “the flannel” come marked patterns, classic plaids and dark, strong, solid colours that your tweed blazer and heavy cotton trousers will be grateful to have in the company of the genuine winter shirt. As they say in Her Majesty’s land: A perfect match.

Let flannel convert you this winter.

Suit Means Business

Suit means “business”, and a good suit goes far beyond this sublimated message.

Buying it customised transports us to another dimension.

Understanding this concept is the basis for knowing how to order a bespoke suit

There are 4 keys to remember: Fact, Custom, “Business” and Dimension

 

The Fact

From a purist’s point of view, a classic suit is a set of 2 or 3 garments, including a waistcoat, made from the same fabric. If it’s tailor-made, it becomes a unique piece, made by a single individual who chose it, tried it on and approved it according to a wide range of criteria in terms of model, fabric, colour, fabrication and finish. The pinnacle of the men’s wardrobe.

The jacket.
Knowing how to order and talk about a jacket according to what you want from it is the first step towards its success. There are so many variables in order for the style to manifest itself and the work to be born.
The jacket can be a 1, 2 or 3-button jacket, or a more or less obvious buttoned jacket, from 2/1 to 6/2 i.e. 6 buttons of which 2 are buttoned. The width of the straps may be a question of fashion, but it goes beyond the ephemeral dictate. The jacket band should be harmonious with the width and height of the torso, and be accompanied by the same criteria for the collar and the width of the tie. The band must measure the same width as the base of a tie.
The bands can be flared or with an opening (the most common) between the collar and the band, as well as flounces for dinner jackets, which can be in the same fabric, velvet or silk.
It can be without openings, with a single opening in the middle or, most commonly, with two side openings that make it easier to reach into the pocket and still keep the back of the jacket straight. They became more popular when the change from horse to car took place.
Whether they’re made in continental England or the Mediterranean in Italy has to do with the type of climate and lighter or lighter construction, but also with the image you’re going for. If the former favours fabrics with more “body” and consistent interlinings, the latter favours lighter fabrics and construction, which doesn’t mean less elaborate, less refined or less excellent. It’s like preferring a car brand with a British or Italian soul.

In the classic jacket, 3 pockets are used, although 4 pockets are used in sports jackets. These 3 pockets consist of two side pockets and a breast pocket. While the breast pocket is the champion when it’s “in sight” – the most common pocket and should only be used to hold a silk, linen or woollen handkerchief – the side pockets can be with or without flaps, horizontal, slightly slanted or very slanted. The slope of the pockets, like the opening, is related to riding.

Don’t neglect the jacket’s inside pockets because, like all its other components, they each have a specific function. It’s therefore possible to comfortably store everyday utilities such as a wallet, diary, mobile phone, cigarette or bottle of hand sanitiser (so important today) inside a jacket.

The decoration of a jacket is its differentiation, sometimes its identity.
Stitching can be on the edge at 1mm (the most common) or 6mm, or even double 6mm for a bolder look, in the colour of the fabric or in contrast to make a statement. The buttonhole, in addition to the colour, also has quality and exception marks such as the sleeve buttonholes being open (a symbol of measurement) and the band eyelet being real or in Milanese stitching for a touch of distinction. Buttons should be chosen taking into account the wearer’s personality and the impact they want to have on each other. They can be made of polyester (the most common), change or horn, or more or less precious metals or stones.

The jacket also has its ceremonial aspects when it is worn to a wedding, christening or vernissage after five o’clock in the evening, and is upgraded to a dinner jacket or a jacket or white tie at a high ceremony that requires an appropriate dress code. In a coordinated version, i.e. where the garments are not all in the same fabric and colour, the French dinner jacket or American dinner jacket becomes a dinner-jacket. Until 5pm, in addition to the dinner jacket, the British morning suit, which we know as a dinner jacket, is also suitable.

Whether you’re wearing a city suit or a business suit, a leisure suit or a relaxed event suit, a travelling suit, a suit for an online business meeting or a ceremonial suit, choosing the right fabric is essential. In this respect, if you’re wearing a bespoke suit or looking for tailoring, it’s best to take the advice of your stylist or trusted tailor, who will know what’s most suitable after a chat about the performance you’re looking for and the investment available.

The trouser
The classic suit trouser is an extremely important item that requires just as much skill and knowledge to ensure that the “pair of trousers” fits as well as the jacket.
Without, with one, two or even three pleats, folded to the outside or inside of the vertical axis of the body, this is the first characteristic that stands out about the model. However, the application of French-style pockets (the most common) can also vary to the more commonly used Italian double welt or inset pocket, just as the vertical silk satin bar(s) on trousers in gala and ceremonial uniforms are important style factors, as are coin pockets, lighter or watch pockets or bank card pockets.
The waistband, high or low as you like, can have 6 or 8 drawstrings, or no drawstrings but with side or back loops, or be V-shaped for braces. When it comes to trousers, the waistband should be made of a good cotton fabric and the lining of a high quality mid-calf, which, along with a good cut, contributes to the best comfort.
More or less flared, with or without a hem – depending on personal taste or use – trousers meet fashion at their “drop”, here, at the hem. If it’s narrow, it should be above the ankle; if it’s wide, it can go down to the heel of the shoe.

The waistcoat
The classic suit waistcoat is not the least important of the three garments. Straight or crossed, without or with a band, with or without breast pockets, but always elegant when carrying a watch or some keys attached to a chain, the waistcoat enjoys the same decoration and details as its cousin the jacket. Sometimes in a co-ordinated version, it is the “Joker” that makes suits different and can add a touch of sophistication and good taste.
For the executive who likes to take his jacket off when he’s in the office, the waistcoat offers the possibility of having the same fabric on the back as on the front, which allows for greater elegance when in “shirt sleeves”.

BY MEASURE

In this key lies the quintessence of elegance. To be a bespoke suit is to be unique. It has a history lived by the tailor and the client, it has an identity that reflects a character and personality, it has a soul made of experience and tradition, made by the hands of skilful craftsmen and women who have produced it, and there are many. A good suit breathes the air of the Himalayas or the British Highlands, the spinning mill of Huddersfield or Biela and the expert hands of tailors and seamstresses who have given hours of their knowledge to the client’s desire.
Being “made to measure” is the fabric, pattern and colour that this desire expressed and the work was done, but it’s also the certainty that the suit respects the customer’s anatomy, bringing out their qualities and covering up what they want covered up, so that in the end the silhouette is perfect, balanced and harmonious.
A jacket has a waistline that must match the client’s, a sleeve elbow curve that must meet the client’s elbow, and a shoulder angle that must perfectly match the client’s body features. Only ready-to-wear suits are symmetrical and straight, like the mannequins that wear them in shop windows. The human body is dynamic and genetic, it has nuances of genetics, posture or acquired habits that only a bespoke suit can understand. The experienced eye of a bespoke stylist or tailor will know the exact height of the sleeves or hem, as well as how to distinguish a strong chest from a more discreet one, a rounder back or more developed shoulder blades, stronger thighs, knees that are more or less close together, among other ergonomic characteristics of each person, which are impossible to fill in at the ready and which make the latter the suit that “fits” and the former the suit that wears and fits well because it was made for just one person.

THE “BUSINESS”

“Business”, in inverted commas because it’s not business, it’s seriousness. “Business” implies seriousness, dedication and commitment. This notion of “business” communicates with the other(s) and gives excellence to the most important or the most futile, sporadic or daily events. The fact is “business” at work, in a social encounter, in seduction, in respect and admiration, in a special event, in an interview. Whenever we do something that calls for or deserves our best, the best ally is the suit, a herald of who we are that announces and exposes us in the right way.

DIMENSION

The fourth key closes this secret of bespoke dressing and is the one that opens the door to pleasure and sophistication for those who have their suit made – or any other item of clothing – declaring: “I’m going to my tailor to have a suit made”, as opposed to those who simply commoditise or buy on impulse: “I’m going to the shop to buy a suit”. Having a suit made is not an act of consumption at all. It’s a desire that is ordered and passed on between the client and the master of the trade and, in itself, this relationship is capable of elevating the social human being to another dimension and is capable of transforming the need to dress into an attitude of one’s own style and of communicating one’s best, anticipating a personality to the world. It is this elevation that transforms the act of dressing into a signature of one’s own style.

These are the basic principles of the classic suit and the main requirements and expressions to use when approaching a stylist or tailor to make bespoke happen, a term that will merit a dedicated article.

Suit says “business”, but a good suit goes far beyond this sublimated message and buying it customised takes you to another dimension.

SuMisura approaches this issue with professionalism and a high level of demand and quality. Bespoke dressing is a statement of character characterised by a personality trait for those who take their elegance seriously, whether formal or informal.

SuMisura is a pioneering brand in Portugal in made to measure stylism, using the most traditional manufacturing techniques for men’s suits, shirts and accessories. Our ateliers in Portugal and Italy guarantee the purchase of a high quality, personalised piece, made with fabrics and raw materials from the world’s most prestigious and luxurious brands, to create a truly bespoke and exclusive suit, shirt, tie or shoe.

Personalised service is offered at the SuMisura studio or at the client’s office or home, always by appointment.

Style with Time

Being suMisura goes far beyond the simple act of buying a product and using it. Being SuMisura is an epicurean lifestyle, it’s about enjoying being among others and feeling unique, like a work of art of your own creation, crafted with knowledge and pleasure in every daily moment. This mission is exclusive to our clients. We, suMisura- Masters of Measurement, have the privileged task of assisting you in this passion.

Pleasure and passion don’t know the tedium of extensive explanations about the quality of manufacture, the quantity of models and patterns, customisation options that could fill our communication with images, explanatory texts, conceptual information and other agents of stimulation and influence.

We could do that… and more. Still, we wouldn’t be fair to those who don’t know us yet.

Without pretentiousness, we prefer to achieve, working with each client who shares with us what is truly essential, such as the conviction of the importance of the act of dressing, the appetite for personalisation, the appreciation of the unique and exclusive, the creation of a garment built with the best raw materials by experienced craftsmen.

We know that a visit to the SuMisura atelier is worth much more than a thousand words, suggestive images or various publications, which is why we keep our information strict and simple, reserving what’s really important for when we’re with you. All SuMisura pieces are exclusively handmade.